Sunday, April 6, 2014

What Tribe's Style is this?

Native American Jewelry is known worldwide for its unique appearance and unusual characteristics.  It is full of national heritage and tradition.  Because of the close proximity of the Native American Indian tribes of the southwest, it is sometimes difficult to differentiate one tribe’s style of jewelry from another.  To help you determine each of the tribe’s jewelry styles that we offer, we have put together some of their distinctive characteristics.  We hope you will find this helpful in identifying Native American jewelry the next time you go shopping.

Navajo
The Navajo Nation is the largest of the Southwestern tribes.  Specifically, the Navajos are best known for working with lots of silver and turquoise stones that are set in simple sterling silver bezels.  They are also known for creating intricate hand-stamped designs in their jewelry by using a hammer-like tool to indent the metal to create an image or symbol.  These decorative metal stampings can include zigzags, braided or hand-twisted rope designs, loops, scrolls, leaves and silver beads or rain drops.  With the closure of many of the turquoise mines, the Navajo artists have incorporated other precious stones such as spiny oyster, coral, black onyx, white horse turquoise, lab created opal as well as other metals to adorn their sterling silver jewelry.  Navajo jewelry artists are also known for using sand casting in some of their jewelry such as belt buckles. 

  
Navajo Boulder Turquoise Sterling Silver Cuff Bracelet.  This is a perfect example of the beautiful silver work that Navajo Native American Artists are known for.  Artist: Philip Sanchez
Made in the USA

  
Navajo Turquoise Sterling Silver Cuff Bracelet with exquisite decorative hand-stampings, hand-twisted sterling silver rope design and Blue Diamond Turquoise.  Artist: Navajo Native American John Nelson
Made in the USA
Navajo Sterling Silver Men's Ring with Turquoise set in sterling silver.
Navajo Native American artist: Larson Lee
Made in the USA

HOPI
You can recognize Hopi jewelry because it is all silver, usually free of stones and is handmade from a process called “Overlay”.  Hopi designs usually include cultural symbols that include animals, nature or clan symbols that are considered religious or secular in meaning.  Many designs are inspired from ancient sources.

The Hopi technique called “Overlay” involves using two layers of sterling silver.  The bottom layer is recessed, etched and oxidized to give it depth and that characteristic blackened background that Hopi jewelry is known for.  The second layer is the detailed design that was created by the artist using small jeweler’s hand saws and chisels.  This is a tedious process that requires a steady hand.  The top layer is bonded to the bottom layer in a complex soldering process that creates the contrast between the two layers.

Although Hopi silver overlay was not originally adorned with turquoise, coral and other stones, many Hopi silversmiths have learned to incorporate stonework into their overlay designs today.

 
Beautiful Example of a Hopi Kokopelli Sterling Silver Money Clip using the "Overlay Process"  Artist: Hopi Native American Joe Josytewa
Made in the USA


This is a intricate, detailed, sterling silver cuff bracelet handmade by Hopi Native American Darin Silas.  This bracelet is a personal expression of the Dragonfly that is regarded as a symbol of springtime, fertility and renewal.  Made in the USA

Three Kokopellis adorn a Sterling Silver Hopi Belt Buckle.  Handmade using the Hopi "Overlay Process" 
 Hopi Native American artist: Joe Josytewa.
Made in the USA

ZUNI
The Zunis learned to make jewelry from the Navajos but the identifying features of Zuni Native American jewelry is the use of small stones, clusters of stones and inlaid stones.  The Zunis are very good lapidary artists.  What sets Zuni jewelry apart from the other tribes is that the Zuni artists use an inlay technique with their stones.  The other tribes use rounded stones that are set on top of the silver while the Zuni artists inlay their stones into the silver in a specific repetitive design.  Sometimes they use slivers of sterling silver to separate the stones in order to create their intricate designs.   

Most Zuni silversmiths engrave their names into their jewelry with an electric handheld engraver.  If you exam the work of the other tribes, you will notice that they hand-stamp their initials or hallmarks into their work.


Another identifying feature of Zuni jewelry is very small needle-shaped pieces of turquoise or coral arranged in intricate patterns that are very specific and repetitive in design.  This style is called Needlepoint or Petit Point.  This type of jewelry consists of finely cut stones that are laid side-by-side in the silver in an intricate mosaic pattern.


This is a Zuni Needlepoint Pendant handcrafted with Turquoise and Coral in Sterling Silver.  This stunning design is symmetrical and well balanced with the use of the small stones.
Zuni Native American Artist: Calo Lacardello


These earrings are an example of the Zuni Coral Cluster Needlepoint Design. Notice the symmetry, balance and the stones match in size, shape and color 
Handmade by Philander Gia
Made in the USA

Native American jewelry is known for its Southwestern cultural diversity, richness and tradition.  Even though the styles, designs, stones and techniques vary from tribe to tribe, one thing remains the same; the talent, dedication, pride and craftsmanship required to create quality, beautiful jewelry is the same for all tribes.